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Pavilion of Dreams

Leo Daly III waxes poetic about a favorite source of inspiration
AS AN ARCHITECT I am constantly inspired by designs I encounter in the world around me. And although inspiration can come from even the most everyday sources—a fashion spread, a natural vista—sometimes a visit to a rarefied collection is required to replenish the creative well.

One of my favorite places in Washington to experience richly inspiring works in an idyllic setting is Dumbarton Oaks, which recently completed a three-year renovation of its galleries. Home to a noted research library and museum with important collections of Byzantine and Pre-Columbian art, as well as landscape architecture studies, this former home of Mildred and Robert Woods Bliss is also prized for its sprawling gardens.

After the Georgetown property was acquired by the couple in 1920, the original Federal-style house and grounds underwent a series of renovations and additions, including gardens by noted landscape architect Beatrix Farrand. The Blisses donated the property and their collection to Harvard University in 1940.

The unparalleled Byzantine artworks amassed by the pair are arranged in refurbished galleries within the main house and comprise more than 1,200 objects from the fourth to the 15th centuries, including jewelry, cloisonné enamels, precious-metal vessels, ivory icons, and illuminated manuscripts. European masterpieces and furnishings are exhibited in the museum’s formal Music Room, which features a hand-painted beamed ceiling and a towering 16th-century stone fireplace from France.

Though the entire property is captivating, there is one portion of Dumbarton Oaks that I find especially moving: the elegantly designed pavilion housing the Robert Woods Bliss Collection of Pre-Columbian Art, which opened to the public in 1963. Designed by world-renowned architect Philip Johnson, with whom I had the privilege of collaborating on several projects overseas, the space is an elegant counterpoint to the Neoclassical and Renaissance influences found in the main house.

Nestled within a grove of trees, the structure, known as the Philip Johnson Pavilion, consists of eight interconnected, domed, circular chambers surrounding an open courtyard and fountain. With its floor-to-ceiling curved windows, the wing is flooded with daylight and views of the surrounding woodland. The succession of domes and wooden floors that radiate out from the center creates a gentle rhythm as one moves from room to room. Though fully enclosed, the space seems to be intimately connected to the outdoors, lending it an almost templelike atmosphere. The pavilion provides a serene backdrop for the impressive collection of Pre-Columbian artwork from Central America, modern-day Colombia and Venezuela, and the Andes. Ceramic vessels, figurines, jade pieces, textiles, stone carvings, and masks are displayed on clear acrylic stands and in cases, and seem to be suspended in space and time.

Whether you’re seeking inspiration or an escape from daily life, Dumbarton Oaks is certain to be a rewarding destination.

The gardens are open March 15 to October 31, Tuesday through Sunday, from 2 to 6 P.M. Admission is $8; children and senior citizens, $5. Admission is free to the museum and shop, which are open Tuesday through Sunday from 2 to 5 P.M. Dumbarton Oaks, 1703 32nd Street NW, 202-339-6401; doaks.org.
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